A Winter’s Pause

Thursday, Sept 30, 2021

Latitude 28o  28’ N

Longitude 16o  15’ W

Santa Cruz Marina, Tenerife

A Winter’s Pause

Pete and I arrived in Santa Cruz on Monday morning the 20th of September. By that afternoon Pete had found a COVID testing center and passed his required PCR test. By Wednesday morning at 4:30 AM he’d stepped off the boat with a hug and started his long voyage home to Truckee, California, where he’d been away for over two months. I promptly went back to bed and then got up as the sun rose to begin 10 days of boat maintenance and exploring Tenerife in anticipation of wife Kay’s arrival this coming Saturday, Oct 2.

The Santa Cruz Marina is a great facility for visiting yachts. Not counting the showers and laundry, a three hundred yard walk over an AstroTurf lined pedestrian bridges places you directly in a small park with a large  circular wading pool  that you’re not allowed to wade in,  imposing guardian statues,  and a tall  crucifix emblazoned tower at  the entrance  to the city. Beyond that, the city is Spanish architecture, wide boulevards, narrow streets, and lush parks  with numerous outdoor cafes, restaurants and upscale stores.  It feels like a young city, with ubiquitous selfies and  skateboards whizzing by at alarming speeds.  The women are stylishly dressed. The men, not so much. The language on the street is primarily Spanish.

Marina Bridge into the City

In contrast,  an hour or so bus ride down the coast to Costa Adeje on the South side of the island and you’re surrounded by a host of languages, mostly British, and the vendors along the boardwalk all speak some form of English. My first thought upon stepping off the bus was “This was a wasted trip,” but after my initial disdain, I concluded that  Kay and I really should visit Costa Adeje and have an overpriced umbrella drink or two at the tourist trap that was pumping out  Tina Turner and the Allman Brothers, so we could get an afternoon buzz and gaze out  over our fellow tourists sprawled  on the grey sand beach.

Beach at Adeje

And at the other end of the bus line, far from Costa Adeje, and only five miles North of Santa Cruz, is  the  subdued beach Las Teresitas, far removed from the madding crowd.

Costa Adeje at Sunrise

Costa Adeje at Sunrise

Given  the two choices of beaches, the outdoor market, the restaurants, the cafés, the parks, and just walking about,  we should have no problem passing the time in  Tenerife until the 13th, at which point Kay and I will move Lillian from the Santa Cruz Marina up the coast to the Anaga  boatyard where she’ll  get lifted out of the water for the winter. We then fly back to Boston on the 15th of October.

I expect it will be a relief  to turn over the responsibility and maintenance of the boat to someone else for a few months. There remain several repairs that need to be made before she heads back out to sea, but the intent is that those will all  be addressed by Anaga by the time I return in January, 2022.  After restocking consumables, Lillian will then  be ready to  head out to sea with the next crew. Next leg:  3000 miles back across the mid-Atlantic to the  lesser Antilles, most likely via Cape Verde. Until then, it will be life back on land. If all goes as planned, I’ll resume sailing and the blog in 2022. Meanwhile, wishing everyone a happy, healthy and prosperous end of 2021.

Planned Mid-Atlantic Crossing

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